Food Unearthed

17 Sep 2018

For many of us, preventing food waste is simply not allowing the bag of spinach in the bottom of the fridge get sweaty and go off, or becoming more sensible with your shopping and planning. But what if we were to use up food that many people think is only fit for the bin or is inedible? With an estimated 7.3 million tonnes of food thrown away every year, we must ask ourselves how to bring food waste reduction into our everyday cooking and be more aware in our homes. This month, my Lens & Larder partner, Cliodhna Prendergast and I have combined forces with Brown Thomas and the Le Creuset Food Unearthed Campaign to create recipes that embrace our leftover ingredients and make the most of our food without having any food waste.

If you think about it, we have actually been preparing waste reduction dishes for centuries using recipes that that have been designed expressly for that purpose. Bread and butter pudding was a way to use up stale bread, Coq au Vin was a recipe developed to use up an old cockerel that would otherwise be too chewy to say the least, however, slowly cooked in the acid and alcohol of old white wine this dish has become a favourite in our kitchens. Another dish that emerged in an effort to use up unwanted fish was Bouillabaisse. Developed by the provincial French fishermen of Marseille as they found it difficult to sell the bony rock fish they fished locally. A broth was made from the rock fish, usually including some leftover shellfish for added flavour and mixed with tomatoes, fennel, saffron and sometimes potatoes. If you fast forward to today’s modern clean eating movement, we can embrace things like juice pulp and parts of vegetables that we wouldn’t ordinarily find edible because they are fantastic ingredients that you can get creative with and that tast delicious when prepared nicely.

We are proud to support #lovefoodhatewaste and Le Creuset’s Food Unearthed campaign and have created two delicious recipes that use up ordinarily discarded foods and turn them into dishes that the whole family will love.  Serve these gorgeous dishes on Le Creuset’s stunning new line of tableware for an unforgettable dining experience all around.

Bouillabaisse
Serves 4-6
Because this dish is based on wasted food the ingredients, you do not have to be exact, any kind of crustacean shells like prawns, crab, lobster, crayfish, I happened to have lobster. I used haddock bones but any white fish will work. The same goes for the vegetables, these are rough ingredient measures how ever use what you have available, ends of onions, fennel, celery trimmings etc are all good.

You can serve it as a hearty soup with the fish that clings to the bones only or you can make it a more filling stew by adding cooked mussels, clams and or a piece of steamed or baked chunky white fish. It’s up to you.

Everything can be made in advance (it is best when it has a chance for the flavours to develop), and the extra seafood added before serving if you please.  To serve you need some toasted crusty bread, baguette is traditional however you should try to get some stale bread from your bakery so whatever is left over is good, ciabatta and sourdough are delicious as the rouille can settle into the air pockets.

Stock
Preheat oven to 200°C
500g lobster shells
500g fish bones/heads cleaned of any blood and glands.
250mls white wine
2lts. water
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced
2 fennel bulbs, reserve the feathery green parts for serving, use the outer parts here and reserve the inner pieces for the main dish.
2 sticks of celery
4 tsp. tomato puree
5 peppercorns

Place the lobster shells on a tray in the oven to roast for 20 minutes. This intensifies the flavour but also makes them easier to break up for the stock.

When the shells are roasted transfer them to a large pot and break up with a hammer or the end of a rolling pin.

Add the fish bones and heads and the wine and simmer for 5 minutes.

Then add the water, onions, fennel, celery, peppercorns and tomato puree.

Bring to a simmer only and turn down the heat so it is simmering very gently for 1 hour. Do not stir. Skim the surface to remove any scum that rises to the top.

Strain through a sieve lined with a piece of muslin/cheese cloth for a nice clear broth.

The Broth
Preheat oven to 200°C
1 onions finely chopped
2 cloves garlic finely chopped
2 tbsp. olive oil
2 fennel bulbs, finely sliced (inner parts from the fennel used in stock)
6 medium potatoes cut into medium sized cubes
2 tbsp. fennel seeds, warmed on a pan and ground a little
400mls white wine
salt and pepper
1 tsp. saffron strands (powdered saffron can be use here but threads are best)
6 over ripe fresh tomatoes crushed
1kg fish bones

First, add the saffron threads to a little warm water or warmed shellfish stock, it will take a little time for the flavour to activate.

Sweat the onions and garlic, with a little salt and pepper in the olive oil until translucent, add the fennel, mix through and remove to a bowl.

Add another tablespoon of olive oil to the pot, heat and add the potatoes, toss in the oil and allow to cook just a little. Add the onions, garlic and fennel back into the pot with the ground fennel seeds, mix through and then add the white wine. Allow the wine to reduce by half.

Add the saffron in its water/stock to the pot along with the tomatoes and cook in for a moment. Then add the stock. Bring to a simmer and allow to simmer for about 20 minutes.

Best to allow it to rest for a while so the flavours can develop before serving.

The fish bones can be cooked now and the flesh added to the pot.

Place the fish bones on an oven tray, removing any fins with a scissors and brush on some olive oil, salt and pepper. Place the tray in the oven for 10- 15 minutes. Remove and when cooled slightly, remove all flesh from the bones, carefully sorting through and removing any little bones. Add the flesh to the cooling bouillabaisse.

Rouille:

1 egg yolk
¼ – ½ lemon juiced
200mls olive oil
1 pinch saffron threads
½ roasted/pickled red pepper,
a handful of stale bread with no crust
2 tbsp. seafood broth from the pot
Plus bread for serving.
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
1 clove garlic grated

Soak the saffron in 2 tablespoon of warm seafood broth. Then add the bread and soak.  Add this to a food processor with the red pepper, garlic and cayenne. Blitz, then add the egg yolk, blitz again. With the motor running, slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream. Add the lemon juice in drops along the way, if the rouille looks like it may be starting to split, a dash of lemon juice will bring it back. The result should be a red-ish mayonnaise type sauce to spread on the toast or add to the broth. Check for seasoning. Chill until serving.

To serve:

Slice the bread in long strips and toast.

If adding other seafood prepare and cook now.

Heat the bouillabaisse gently and serve (with or without extra seafood) in bowls with fresh green fennel tips on top. Put a dollop of rouille on the toast and serve with the soup with extra rouille on the side.

Italian Juice Pulp “Meatballs”
Serves 4-6
These delicious meatballs take away the guilt of discarding all of the juice pulp you have after juicing just a couple glasses for your morning detox elixir. If you fancy, you can add this mixture to beef or pork if you must have the protein boost.

Makes 10 Balls
500g pulp of beetroot and carrot, excess juice squeezed out
1 egg white
200g day old bread crumbs
30g grated parmesan
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 tsp oregano
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp lemon zest
Sea salt and pepper to season
1 tsbp extra virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 180c
Combine pulp, egg white and bread crumbs in a mixing bowl. Add garlic, oregano, fennel seeds, lemon zest and salt and pepper, mix to combine thoroughly. Shape into 10 meatballs (or more/less -size to your liking).

Heat olive oil in a nonstick skillet over med heat. Add meatballs and cook for 10-12 minutes. Remove from skillet and transfer to baking dish. Place on hot preheated oven for 25 minutes until cooked through.

Serve with pasta and sauce of your liking.

Kale Spines with Lemon and Thyme
Keep your kale spines, they are absolutely delicious and just as nutritious and filled with antioxidants as the leaves. Just blanch and grill and you have a surprisingly tasty no-waste side dish.

Serves 4-6

1 dozen kale stems
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp crushed garlic (opt)
Sea salt and pepper to taste

Bring large pot of water to the boil. Place kale stems into boiling water for 2 minutes. Remove and cool. Place kale stems into ziplock bag with olive oil, salt and papper and garlic if using. Place in fridge to marinate for 30 mins up to overnight. Prepare hot coals for grill. Place kale stems on grill until charred. Serve.

Slan Abhaile,
Imen xx

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